Just an hour north of central Kyoto is a small village nestled in the mountains. Ohara is known for its gorgeous scenery, pickled cucumbers, and beautiful Buddhist temple.
Sanzenin was established in the late 8th century by the monk Saicho, who introduced Tendai Buddhism to Japan. It takes its name from the Buddhist concept of “ichinen sanzen,” which expresses the idea that in each moment of life, a person has the potential to experience the totality of the universe and all its realities.
Cloaked in silence, Sanzenin is considered a power spot among locals. And as you pass through the temple gate, its tranquil atmosphere can instantly be felt. Surrounded by trees, moss-covered paths, and traditional gardens, the serene landscape brings a sense of clarity and calm.
The Kayakuden, or Guest Hall, is one of the temple’s biggest draws. It opens up onto a beautiful garden where you can sit and enjoy green tea with a Japanese sweet. Shuhekien, as it’s called, features a pond and a pagoda-topped hill. The view, framed by the columns of the temple, is a sight to behold.
Warabe-jizo are another attraction of the temple grounds. These small, child-like statues, which are believed to protect children, can be spotted in various mossy corners if you look closely enough. There’s also a big ajisai garden which is filled with hydrangeas in June and July.
The main house of the temple, Shinden, overlooks another garden called Yuseien. The name roughly translates to the “Garden of Clarity,” which is taken from a poem by the Chinese poet Zuo Si. He wrote, “the mountains and rivers have clear notes of their own.”
Something about the placement of the cedar and maple trees in the garden reminded me of the castle ruins of Hitoyoshi, which is funny because that city is nicknamed the “Little Kyoto” of Kumamoto. And standing on that hilltop eight years ago, where the city peeked through the trees, I had, indeed, found some clarity of my own.
Here, there was no city to be seen. In fact, you could almost forget you were just outside Kyoto altogether. That is the beauty of Sanzenin, I guess; it’s a hidden gem in the truest sense of the phrase.
Visit Sanzen-In Temple
Sanzenin is about an hour away from Kyoto by bus. Take the Route 17 bus bound for Ohara from the Kyoto Bus Stop C3 in front of Kyoto Station, then get off at the Ohara stop. The temple is a 10-minute walk from there.
Admission: 700 yen
Hours: 08:30~17:00 (Mar–Dec); 09:00~16:30 (Dec–Feb)
